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Parts Orders
How do I know if an item is stocked or needs a lead time?
As a general rule, only the oiling modification kits are stocked. I
usually have a variety of other parts on hand, but it's not guaranteed. What
is a typical lead time for services?
I try to get parts turned around in two weeks or less. If your need
is urgent, I will do whatever I can.
Suspension
Service
When do I pay, before or after?
This is the most common question I get. It usually works best to pay
after the service is complete. This way all parts needed will be
included.
How should I ship the parts? It doesn't matter to
me. I typically send everything USPS Priority Mail. All parts are returned in
the packaging they were sent in.
Please follow these guidelines:
- It's nice to e-mail me and let me know your parts are on the
way. I don't always have every seal, bushing, etc on hand.
If I know you are shipping forks or a shock to me I can be sure to
pre-order the typical parts needed. This just speeds up the
process.
- Be sure to include a note that has 1) your year and model 2) your
name and return address.
- Try to package the items as good as possible. As mentioned
above, I return the parts in the same box they came in.
Wheel Swap Kits
Please follow these guidelines:
- It is not necessary to pay first! The first step is to
send me the stock parts that need modified. This varies by
model, so check the ordering page to find out what needs sent.
E-mail me if you have any questions.
- Just like above, it's nice to e-mail me and let me know your parts
are on the way.
- Be sure to include a note that has 1) your year and model 2) your
name and return address.
- Your modified parts will be returned along with the additional parts
needed to complete the swap. don't always have every seal, bushing,
etc on hand. If I know you are
Do you have any sets of F2 wheels available?
No. The only ones I have are either on one of my bikes or are
race spares. I have a VF500 and want to use an F2 front wheel.
How do I get it machined?
This needs to be done by a machine shop. I can send you a print
that will tell them exactly what to do. Most shops will charge $100
or so for this type of work. Most cities have several machine shops
to choose from, try to find one that specializes in close-tolerance work
(like gages). At minimum they will need a CNC machining center to
modify a front wheel. What if I want to use a different wheel?
I'll be happy to help out in any way I can. If your choice of
wheel is something that I don't have readily available then you will have
to send me the wheels for measurement. If you aren't sure if the
wheels you want will work I can give you some basics to check yourself. My
exact model/year is not listed. Does this mean you can't make a kit
for my bike?
No. I've done several other bikes that aren't listed. It
might have been several years ago. If so, I probably need to verify
some dimensional information (I wasn't always as organized as I am now
:). If you would like to make some measurements of your bike I would
be happy to help you out.
Top End Oil
Modification Kits
Comparison of 'Main Oil Gallery' to 'Oil Filter Plate' type kits:
- Of course, I highly recommend the main oil gallery type. For
those people looking to permanently fix the problem, once you consider
the facts the choice should be clear. Below are some facts about
he two types of kits that are available.
- Cost - Since the oil filter plate kits require some machined
parts they are much more expensive. The main oil gallery type
represents the most cost effective investment in your bike's future.
-
Ease of installation - The oil filter plate is the easiest.
This is, in fact, the only positive for this type of kit.
Drilling and tapping one hole for the main oil gallery type is not
that big of a deal for the majority of some people. Plus it
can always be plugged, nothing is permanent!
-
Oil flow/pressure - Here's the kicker. The real situation is
lack of proper flow to the top end, we all agree on that. On a
hot day at idle your bike can have as little as 0-5psi going to the
top end. That's right, it can be 0psi, no flow at all. The oil filter
plate type kits tap into the system right at the filter, one of the
highest points of pressure in the whole system. Now, keep in
mind that your bottom end needs more oil than the top end.
That is easy to forget! Since any time you tap into a
pressurized system you decrease the pressure downstream you need to be very
careful. Don't be fooled by claims of increased crankshaft
pressure. In order to not drop the crankshaft pressure very
much the oil filter plate kits use built-in restrictors to limit
flow and pressure. The net is, and this claim comes from them
and not me, only and increase of 2-5psi to the top end (sometimes
their claim is "double"). If
0-5psi is not enough 7-10psi won't be either. You really need
about 20-30psi for proper operation. The oil gallery type mod
taps into the system downstream of the crank. That means the
crank pressure is not reduced and you get a proper amount of flow to
the top end. The main oil gallery type is by far the best
performing type of modification.
-
One last point: take a look at pictures of HRC racebikes from that
era. They all have the main oil gallery mod. In fact,
the casting of the block on several models suggests/proves that Honda knew all along
that the top end supply should come from this point. This cast feature perfectly accepts the
supply fitting. Those two points were all I needed to know.
Cancelled Orders
Refunds for orders not yet shipped:
- If you place an order and would like to cancel you must do so before
it ships. Once the order has shipped it can not be
refunded. Please contact me immediately to stop shipment.
If a shipment can be stopped, the refund will made minus any fees plus
10% restocking charge.
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